It was a sunny Saturday and my friend Johann, who was visiting from Berlin, was set on catching a game of Asteras Exarchion; I couldn’t say no. Asteras is perhaps the most famous non-league club in Greece. It is a side with a long history, founded in 1928, and is known for its anti-authoritarian values which reflect Exarchia, their home district. A self-managed club with a big following, they celebrate win or lose and have some of the most creative chants.

This season they’re playing in the 6th tier, the lowest level of Greek football, and today they’re facing the B team of Agios Dimitrios, an area on the south side of Athens. The first team plays two divisions above.

I got there first, after a long commute from the city centre, and was met with a pretty decent-looking, recently renovated municipal stadium. I took a seat and waited for my friend as more and more Asteras fans entered the stand. The vibe was very relaxed; there were very few home fans, as expected, and the match was of minimal importance. Everyone was chit-chatting, snacking and drinking, and I was catching up with Johann as Asteras scored one goal after another. When the game was over, the players joined the fans and, in typical fashion, chanted altogether.