I left Sanità and headed to the train station once more, this time bound for Caserta. Everything was going very smoothly until I realised I had been waiting on the wrong platform for quite some time, which resulted in me missing my train. On top of that, my power bank had just died, with my phone sitting at around ten per cent. I was on the verge of a breakdown but managed to keep my calm and hop on the next train without having to buy a new ticket, eventually reaching Caserta just in time. A big relief.

My friends were waiting for me at the station entrance and we walked together towards the stadium as it began to get dark. Upon arrival at the station, the first thing a visitor is met with is the Royal Palace of Caserta. Being the largest former royal residence in the world, it is undeniably the city’s main attraction. I had been there last year, so this time I was here for the second greatest attraction: Stadio Alberto Pinto.

The streets felt rather empty at first, but the closer we got to the stadium, the more people appeared. We even bumped into a small corteo on the street leading up to it. We bought tickets for the long stand at the fairly crowded ticket office and queued at the busy entrance gate. Inside, we grabbed beers and amaretto shots (no Caffè Borghetti this time) and took our place to the right of the home side’s organised supporters.

If I’m not mistaken, Casertana’s ultras traditionally occupied the south curve of the Alberto Pinto, which has now been demolished (due to reconstruction works perhaps). These days they position themselves in the middle of the Distinti stand. Fedayn Bronx is arguably the most well-known and historic group; their banner used to be the central one, but nowadays they only bring a smaller version reading simply “FB”. A banner that reads “Caserta” has become the new main one and, as I was told, belongs to a younger generation of ultras. Today, Casertana’s ultras were not particularly numerous, at least compared to their older days or Cavese’s curva the day before, but they still put on a decent show. A small-ish group of Latina ultras was also present: compact, all dressed in black, the front line holding a banner bearing their team’s name (image 20). They didn’t chant continuously for ninety minutes but made their presence felt at times.

My friends and I entered the stand a few minutes after kick-off and were surprised to see the players lining up at the halfway line. Apparently, Latina (low in the standings) had rather shockingly scored in the very first minute. What followed was a back-and-forth of Caserta vaffanculo and Latina vaffanculo from the two ends, along with Roman salutes from the away section, which were met with booing from the home support. Casertana’s fanbase is traditionally left-leaning and, presumably, Latina’s ultras, who are far-right, were trying to provoke them. Their city was founded by Mussolini, after all.

The Pontini, as Latina are nicknamed, created some big chances, but the home side controlled the game overall and managed to equalise in first-half added time. In the second half, the visitors were reduced to ten men and the match shifted heavily in Casertana’s favour. The home side dramatically took the lead with a goal in the 89th minute, before sealing the win deep into stoppage time with a quick counter-attack that saw Casertana’s striker dribble past Latina’s goalkeeper.

The victory was celebrated passionately by players and fans alike, with the team moving towards the ultras to join in their chants. I tried to sing along too, but my empty stomach was starting to make it clear that it was time to go and find some pizza instead.