Agria is the first seaside town you encounter when driving from Volos towards Pelion. Their stadium was renovated last year, and like Kala Nera’s, which I visited a few months ago, it embodies the charm of the region. Built on the upper edge of the town, it offers stunning views of the sea.

Despite being a very small town, Agria has a long football history. Their club, Thiseas, has been around for almost 100 years and spent a few seasons in the third division of Greece a few years ago. Now, they’re playing in the first level of the regional league. Their opponent, Sarakinos, is a club that represents the Agia Paraskevi neighbourhood of Volos, and their team is currently sitting at the top of the table.

It was raining, but still, a few people had turned up. I sat next to a young person who was trying to film with his phone but was struggling because of the rain. He was very annoyed. He told me he was responsible for the TikTok account of Sarakinos—a dream job, I thought. His side was the favourite in this encounter, and they proved it by scoring very early on. In the second half, Thiseas had a player seriously injured and transferred to the hospital. That didn’t let them down, though, as they equalised with a beautiful free kick in the 78th minute. The visiting side gave it their all in the remaining minutes and were rewarded in injury time when they eventually scored the winning goal.